What is the most enduring language in international politics? It is neither military might nor economic power. Sometimes, it is a bowl of noodles, a piece of roasted duck, or a cup of tea. China has understood this for a long time. As Confucius stated in the "Analects," "Rituals value harmony" (禮之用 和爲貴), indicating that Chinese civilization has historically read its counterparts and adjusted relationships at the dining table before resorting to swords.
During President Donald Trump's visit to Beijing, China once again showcased the essence of 'food diplomacy.' The final lunch menu presented by President Xi Jinping surprisingly featured not an extravagant royal dish, but Kung Pao Chicken, a Sichuan-style stir-fried chicken. At first glance, it appears to be a simple dish, but in Chinese diplomacy, food is never just food; it is a code and a message.
Kung Pao Chicken is one of the most deeply rooted Chinese dishes in American society. It was created and consumed by Chinese laborers who migrated to the U.S. in the 19th century for railroad construction, mining, and farming. Its spicy yet familiar flavor has become a symbol of American Chinese cuisine. China chose to serve this dish to President Trump.
Adding to the intrigue is a play on words. Trump's Chinese name is 'Chuanpu' (川普), while Sichuan cuisine is referred to as 'Chuan Cai' (川菜). This reflects China's unique cultural code of ambiguity, cleverly juxtaposing Trump's blunt political style with the bold flavors of Sichuan cuisine. The menu for the state dinner exemplified the meticulous nature of China's 'food diplomacy.' It was not merely a display of traditional Chinese dishes; it carefully considered President Trump's palate, American tastes, and Western dining culture.
The state dinner on May 14 at the Great Hall of the People in Beijing included Peking Duck, a dish that symbolizes Chinese tradition and royal culture. Known for its crispy skin and tender meat, Peking Duck is a staple at state banquets for foreign leaders and represents the pride of China's capital.
The menu also featured Cantonese lobster soup, crispy beef, and slow-cooked salmon with mustard sauce. Additionally, there were Chinese-style crispy dumplings, shell-shaped pastries, and even Italian tiramisu.
The composition of the menu was highly symbolic. Peking Duck represented China's traditions and royal culture, while Cantonese seafood dishes signified openness and internationalism. The salmon with mustard sauce catered to Western tastes, and the tiramisu served as a bridge to European sensibilities. The flavors of East and West were harmoniously intertwined without conflict. The dining table effectively mirrored the current state of U.S.-China relations: competitive yet coexisting, clashing yet unable to completely turn away from one another.
The atmosphere at the dinner was also carefully curated. The music included a mix of American and Chinese songs. Notably, when the song 'YMCA,' frequently used by Trump during his campaign, played, diplomats remarked that "China thoroughly researched Trump's personal political style and preferences." This was a classic example of Chinese hospitality aimed at honoring the guest's pride and narrowing psychological distances.
Sun Tzu's "Art of War" states, "The best victory is the one that is achieved without fighting." Chinese diplomacy sometimes designs its banquet menus more intricately than missile strategies. Interestingly, this food diplomacy is not exclusive to Trump.
Earlier this year, when South Korean President Lee Jae-myung visited China, President Xi Jinping personally recommended Beijing-style Jajangmyeon at the state dinner. This was not the sweet black bean noodles familiar to Koreans but a savory and light version typical of northern China. Xi reportedly said, "Try it and see how it differs from Korean Jajangmyeon."
That remark was not merely a joke. Jajangmyeon originally came from Chinese Shandong laborers who brought it to Incheon and Seoul. However, it has since transformed into a completely different cultural dish in Korea. China is aware of this. In other words, Jajangmyeon represents a shared cultural memory between China and Korea amid conflict and competition. Xi Jinping placed that memory on the dining table.
When welcoming Russian President Vladimir Putin, the menu changes again. China has shown a tendency to favor hearty northern dishes rich in meat and flavor for Russian leaders. Smoked duck, lamb dishes, stir-fried seafood, and rich broth-based foods frequently appear. Alongside these, vodka and traditional Chinese liquor, Baijiu, are served. This is not just hospitality; it symbolizes the geopolitical bond of "continental powers."
Indeed, the dining settings for China-Russia summits often resemble a representation of the Eurasian continental order. The emphasis is on meat over seafood, and the robust flavors of northern cuisine are highlighted over the delicate Cantonese dishes. This indicates that China views Russia not as a "maritime power" but as part of the same continental civilization.
The atmosphere shifts again when French President Emmanuel Macron visits Beijing. France considers food itself a part of its national identity. China emphasizes Cantonese seafood and wine pairings to highlight delicacy and artistry. It naturally connects French wine culture with Chinese tea traditions, and the dessert selection leans more towards European styles. This conveys the message that "China is not just a factory but a civilized nation." Macron, well-versed in cultural diplomacy from the Louvre and Versailles, was accurately understood by China.
Dinners with German chancellors tend to have a more pragmatic atmosphere. Germany values order, balance, and stability over extravagance. Thus, China often presents relatively simple and structured course meals rather than overly stimulating or decorative dishes. Typical offerings include light fish dishes, health-focused mushroom and vegetable dishes, and restrained desserts. This reflects a dining experience of "trust and stability" tailored to Germany's industrial and manufacturing characteristics.
In fact, food in Chinese diplomacy is not merely about hospitality. It is a vast narrative where history, civilization, economy, strategy, psychology, and symbolism all operate simultaneously. For 5,000 years, China has been a "civilization at the crossroads." As merchants, envoys, monks, and armies passed through the Silk Road, China developed the skill of understanding its counterparts. And at the center of this has always been food.
The "Tao Te Ching" states, "A great nation remains lowly" (大國者下流), meaning that the stronger a nation is, the more it must embrace others. China sometimes seeks to embody this philosophy at the banquet table. Of course, the reality of U.S.-China relations is far from romantic. Strategic competition over semiconductors, AI, Taiwan, the South China Sea, and tariffs is becoming increasingly intense. However, it is interesting that even clashing nations strive to respect each other's cultures at the dining table.
Trump enjoys Peking Duck, President Lee Jae-myung tastes Beijing-style Jajangmyeon, Putin indulges in Chinese lamb, Macron savors Chinese tea, and the German chancellor enjoys light Cantonese fish dishes. International politics is ultimately a human endeavor. And humans remember best when they share a meal together. Perhaps the world order is gradually shifting not at the summit table but in the banquet halls behind it.
Between a plate of Kung Pao Chicken and a bowl of Jajangmyeon, the world quietly negotiates today.
* This article has been translated by AI.
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