Gwanghwamun, a historical center of South Korea that has evolved from the Joseon Dynasty through the Japanese occupation to modern times, is home to the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, often referred to as the "heart of the arts." Despite its proximity, the inner workings of this cultural landmark have remained largely hidden from the public eye.
On May 28, visitors embarked on a "Backstage Tour" of this monumental building, revealing the dedication and history behind the scenes that contribute to its vibrant performances.
As former announcer Yoo Jeong-ah guided the group, the moment they stepped through the closed doors, the hidden aspects of the stage, usually obscured by dazzling lights and applause, came into full view. This secret space, typically off-limits to the general public, evoked a mix of excitement and nostalgia as attendees adjusted to their surroundings.
This program, organized by the Seoul Tourism Foundation in collaboration with the Sejong Center, offered a unique opportunity to explore both the birthplace of performing arts and the historical significance of the venue. It was not merely a tour of a landmark but a genuine journey into the city's cultural depths.
◆ From Ashes to a Cultural Hub: The Grandeur of 1978
The Sejong Center now stands where the Seoul Citizens' Hall, a prominent performance venue completed in 1961, once existed. After a devastating fire in December 1972, Seoul lacked a proper venue, forcing the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra to perform at Ewha Womans University the following year. The conductor, Claudio Abbado, expressed dissatisfaction with the facilities, vowing never to return, highlighting the urgent need for a comprehensive performance hall.
Construction began in 1974, and the Sejong Center officially opened in April 1978. Built with an impressive capacity of over 3,800 seats, it was designed with an awareness of the North Korean Mansudae Art Theater amid the division of the Korean Peninsula. After renovations in 2004, the seating was adjusted to 3,022. Herbert von Karajan, the renowned conductor who led the Berlin Philharmonic in 1984, praised it as a "wonderful hall."
The architect, the late Um Deok-mun, envisioned the Sejong Center as "Seoul's living room," integrating traditional Korean architectural elements like the main house and annex with modern design. For instance, the Grand Theater serves as the main house, while the Chamber Hall and M Theater represent the annex.
President Park Chung-hee requested a tiled roof design, but Um insisted on preserving tradition through the curves of the corridors and eaves without tiles, ultimately completing the building as it stands today.
The most significant legacy of this space is the grand pipe organ that fills the left wall of the Grand Theater. Custom-built by Karl Schuke in Germany, its installation and tuning took 13 months, involving 4,000 personnel, including 1,400 German technicians. The organ features 8,098 pipes, six keyboards, stands 11 meters tall, 7 meters wide, and weighs 45 tons, valued at approximately 6 billion won today. Its design reflects the shape of a geomungo and the curves of traditional tiled roofs, incorporating sounds reminiscent of Buddhist bells, solidifying its status as a symbol of the venue.
◆ The Aesthetics of One Inch Behind the Stage and the Boundary-Breaking S Theater
While the sound reflectors are usually lowered, a vast auxiliary space lies hidden behind the stage. Moving to the "Stage Right," the backstage area was bustling with activity as staff prepared for a rehearsal of the musical "Beethoven," resembling a massive organism in motion.
The 17-meter rotating stage takes 27 seconds to turn 90 degrees and 55 seconds for a 180-degree rotation. A lifting platform allows the lead actor to rise and descend from the floor, while 43 suspension rods hang from the ceiling, leading to 11 dressing rooms below, hinting at the countless hours of effort that go into creating a spectacular performance.
Exiting the Grand Theater leads to the S Theater, a flexible black box theater with around 300 seats that opened in 2018. This space boldly removes the boundaries between the audience and the stage, providing an immersive experience. When all the seats are pushed back, it transforms into a flat stage. A guide shared a humorous anecdote about an audience member who dozed off on a cushioned seat, only to wake up startled by an actor standing right in front of them, showcasing the freedom of this space.
◆ The Memorial Garden 'Garden of Gratitude' and the Future of Arts Tourism
The journey through the arts naturally led to Gwanghwamun Square, where the newly opened "Garden of Gratitude" serves as a memorial space honoring the countries that participated in the Korean War.
Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., or the National Memorial Arboretum in the UK, this open public space is designed to connect with the daily lives of citizens. It symbolizes South Korea's commitment to remembering its painful history and honoring the sacrifices of allied nations in the heart of Gwanghwamun.
In the garden, 23 sculptures stand silently, symbolizing the height of 6.25 meters, representing the date of the Korean War's outbreak on June 25. The number 23 signifies the noble dedication of the allied forces (the Korean military and 22 participating nations) who shed blood to protect this land. Notably, some sculptures are made from stones donated by the participating countries, enhancing the space's significance.
Each evening, a laser show titled "Light of Gratitude 23" illuminates the sky from the 23 sculptures, creating a breathtaking display that connects the sacrifices of the past to the peaceful nightscape of today.
The tour then led underground to the immersive media exhibition space "Freedom Hall," which poignantly reflects the painful memories of war and the remarkable growth of South Korea from the ashes through media art, leaving a profound impact on visitors.
Ki Gi-yeon, head of the Seoul Tourism Foundation, noted, "With the addition of the Garden of Gratitude and the underground media art, a new combination of attractions has been created in Gwanghwamun Square, traditionally guarded by the statues of Admiral Yi Sun-sin and King Sejong the Great." He emphasized that just as South Koreans feel a sense of pride when they encounter the national flag abroad, foreign tourists will also experience a deep emotional connection when they discover their flags in this land of freedom preserved by their ancestors.
A representative from the Sejong Center mentioned that over 60 foreign tourists have already visited after seeing reports in international media. The cost of 30,000 won and the 70-minute experience are deemed worthwhile as they immerse visitors in the 600-year history of Gwanghwamun, the philosophy of architect Um Deok-mun, and the heart of the arts.
Currently, the tour is exclusively for foreign visitors, but the foundation plans to open it to locals in the future, depending on demand. The day will soon come when locals can also explore this familiar yet unfamiliar world behind the stage that they pass by every day, and it is a journey worth waiting for.
* This article has been translated by AI.
Copyright ⓒ Aju Press All rights reserved.