There are those who live their lives gazing at a hometown they can never reach. These are the displaced persons of Gyodongdo. Located above the civilian access control line, Gyodongdo faces North Korea's Hwanghae Province, with a distance of just 2.6 kilometers separating them.
Gyodongdo became a refuge for those who fled from Hwanghae Province during the Korean War. Before the opening of the Gyodong Bridge in 2014, the island was often referred to as a "frozen time island" since it could only be accessed by boat. On the 20th, the Aju Economic Investigative Team visited Gyodongdo to hear the stories of the displaced persons.
The impression of Gyodongdo was striking from the very beginning. At the entrance of the Gyodong Bridge, a soldier in a poncho approached to inquire about the purpose of the visit. After confirming there were no issues, he gestured for us to proceed slowly, a moment that underscored the proximity to North Korea.
After navigating through the spring rain and military checkpoints, we arrived at Dae Ryong Market on Gyodongdo. Perhaps due to the drizzling rain or the fact that it was a weekday morning, most shops were closed, with only a few open.
The Aju Economic Investigative Team spoke with the owner of a side dish shop, Mr. Kim, who was open for business. As he enthusiastically introduced his homemade pickled radish and soy sauce, he mentioned that he is a second-generation displaced person. "Now, there are more second and third generations than first-generation displaced persons," he explained.
Following Mr. Kim's lead, we visited a small shop run by another second-generation displaced person, Mr. Hong. He shared, "In the past, those who left their hometowns had little to eat, so they would sell what they brought from home, which marked the beginning of the market. Today, most shops are run by second and third generations, while the first-generation elders tend to the farms."
Mr. Hong continued, "Many first-generation displaced persons are passing away. My mother passed away three years ago. After her death, I have been living in a place where I can see Yeonbaek well. My brother has also built a house there."
As Mr. Hong noted, it is now rare to meet first-generation displaced persons at Dae Ryong Market. They have aged and stepped back from direct economic activities. However, the place their parents worked hard to establish has now become a stable foundation for their descendants.
In an alley where a mill and a butcher shop face each other, Mr. Choi, the butcher, expressed a deep bond with Mr. Kim, the mill owner, saying they are "closer than brothers." Both are descendants of displaced persons.
Mr. Kim remarked, "There were over 15,000 people on Gyodongdo in the past. Since the 1980s, as educational aspirations grew, the population rapidly declined, and now there are very few left." He added, "The first-generation elders who remain long for their hometown every day. In the past, we would charter two buses for a program where military officers would explain the northern regions, but now with barbed wire up, such programs no longer exist," he lamented.
He further noted, "Recently, National Assembly Speaker Woo Won-sik visited Gyodongdo, where the need for a memorial or history and culture center was discussed. When he expressed uncertainty about whether he could fulfill this promise after his term ends, Governor Myung Gye-nam of Hwanghae Province pledged, 'I will take responsibility and make it happen.' In fact, Governor Myung is scheduled to visit Gyodongdo again on the 30th of this month to keep his promise to the displaced persons."
Mr. Choi, a former president of the Dae Ryong Market Merchants Association, stated, "Gyodongdo is an island filled with the tears of displaced persons, especially those from Yeonbaek." He noted, "Many from Yeonbaek would come here, where they could see their hometown with their own eyes, and they often cried during their visits. Even now, many visit the Manghyangdae."
The longing for their hometown is embedded in the very name (望鄕, to long for one's hometown). Every holiday, displaced persons and their descendants are known to visit Manghyangdae to hold memorial services.
Meanwhile, Mr. Choi expressed disappointment regarding the operations of the Northern Five Provinces Committee. He said, "The only thing we receive from the Northern Five Provinces Committee is a newspaper. Wouldn't it be more meaningful to use that operating budget to donate in the names of displaced persons and northern residents?"
Gyodongdo is no longer just a land of sorrow for displaced persons. Their tears and sweat have become the foundation for their descendants' lives. However, the pain of losing their hometown remains deeply embedded in their hearts.
In-depth coverage examining the need to redefine the organizational operations and roles of the Northern Five Provinces Committee will continue in the report titled '[Aju Investigative Report] Late arrivals and allowances near home... Reigniting the debate on the Northern Five Provinces Committee's existence.'
* This article has been translated by AI.
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