The faces of North Koreans often seen in the news are typically expressionless or filled with joy. They either applaud with teary eyes at the gestures of Kim Jong Un or stand with tense, rigid faces. These expressions seem somewhat artificial.
However, the faces of North Koreans encountered at the National Folk Museum in Jongno-gu, Seoul, on August 11 were different. They rolled their eyes, pouted, and appeared comical, ready to tease someone. Instead of hiding their expressions in the face of authority, they laughed and mocked freely. Their faces seemed eager to jest and criticize.
The National Folk Museum's special exhibition, 'ZERO: Encountering North Korea through Folklore,' which runs from August 12 to February 14, 2027, showcases 316 folk artifacts from the North Korean region before the liberation. Items on display include masks from the Bongsan Mask Dance, Haeju jars, traditional cabinets, and records related to Mount Kumgang.
The exhibition brings to light an often-forgotten truth: that 'our' folk culture is also the folk culture of 'North Korea,' encompassing regions like Kaesong, Hwanghae-do, Pyongan-do, and Hamgyeong-do. It speaks of a culture that, while now distant, was once close—indeed, one.
What captures attention are the masks. The exhibition features masks from the Bongsan Mask Dance, Bukcheong Lion Dance, Gangnyeong Mask Dance, and Haeju Mask Dance. These masks mock the hypocrisy of authority figures, twisting the world with humor and wit. Such expressions are unimaginable in today's North Korea, where everyone stands and applauds in unison at the slightest gesture from their leaders.
Once vibrant and dynamic, the lion masks that once leaped and rolled across the North Korean landscape now display unique personalities. With shaggy manes and bulging eyes, they appear silly or fierce, each with distinct features. This stands in stark contrast to the rigid image of North Korea today, defined by its nuclear ambitions.
In a time when shamanism and fortune-telling content are trending, the 'Mushindo' displayed in the exhibition evokes a sense of shared heritage. Mushindo are ritual paintings used in shamanistic practices to communicate with spirits, providing rare insight into the shamanistic traditions of North Korea. Visitors can see various deities that the North Korean people rely on, such as the guardian spirit of the village, the deity of fortune and longevity, and the deity of wisdom.
Is there still shamanism in North Korea, which claims to be socialist? A museum official confirmed, 'Yes, they are called 'fortune tellers' instead of shamans. The number of fortune tellers is on the rise. The State Security Department even hires powerful fortune tellers, but some have defected due to dissatisfaction with this situation. They say their strong abilities helped them escape safely.'
At the center of the exhibition, 88 beautiful Haeju jars draw visitors' attention. These jars, combining the practicality of earthenware with the elegance of blue-and-white porcelain, feature bold designs of peonies, fish, and chrysanthemums. They are among the 232 Haeju jars donated by Kim Ui-gwang, director of the Mokin Museum. Each jar, with its unique patterns and shapes, resonates with the desire of people to keep beauty close.
Visitors can also encounter traditional items like the Bakcheon cabinet and small Haeju table, which carry the scent of human touch.
If you wish to see the 'people' behind the rigid faces of North Korea—those who laugh, tease, and cherish beauty—this exhibition is highly recommended.
The exhibition runs from August 12, 2026, to February 14, 2027, at the National Folk Museum's special exhibition hall 1.
* This article has been translated by AI.
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