On October 20, the Flower Nose pop-up store opened in Seongsu-dong, Seoul, featuring a whimsical pastel exterior and cosmetics resembling princess-themed decorations. This marks the third pop-up for the Chinese color cosmetics brand since its entry into the Korean market a year ago.
Despite being a weekday, the pop-up attracted a steady stream of visitors eager to browse and purchase products. A representative noted that nearly 2,700 people visited the previous day, with weekend numbers exceeding 5,000. The store also saw tourists from Europe, China, and Japan. The representative added, "Even the most expensive packages, priced around 700,000 won, are selling one or two a day."
Located across from the prominent cosmetics store Olive Young N Seongsu, customers carrying Olive Young shopping bags were frequently spotted inside the pop-up. Currently, Chinese cosmetics brands are not available at Olive Young.
Visitors cited design rather than price as their primary reason for purchasing. They highlighted unique features such as the packaging and embossed decorations on the products. A woman in her twenties, who returned after visiting last year's pop-up, remarked, "It's not as cheap as I expected for a Chinese product, but the packaging is beautiful, and I can keep it after using the product. There are many online reviews, so I don't feel a strong aversion to Chinese brands." She also expressed satisfaction in using a lesser-known brand.
This trend presents another challenge for K-beauty, which must counter the growing influence of C-beauty. It underscores the need for product planning that captures consumer preferences, in addition to the trust associated with Korean products and their quality relative to price.
Chinese brands are also expanding their reach in the U.S. market, offering products at various price points. For example, Judy Doll's eyeliners are priced at $11.99, contour makeup products at $16.99, and lip products range from $11 to $16, making them competitive with local brands. In contrast, Flower Nose's eyeshadow palettes are priced around $35, targeting consumers who prioritize design.
Notably, Chinese brands are utilizing Korean distribution networks to secure overseas sales channels. Proya has signed an exclusive distribution agreement with the Korean company Grace, which handles everything from product selection to delivery for Ulta Beauty. An industry insider stated, "Chinese brands are leveraging Korean manufacturing and distribution infrastructure, making it difficult to view this infrastructure as a unique competitive advantage for K-beauty. They must differentiate their brands through unique product quality, brand identity, and planning and marketing based on local consumer data."
Operational capabilities for stable supply to overseas stores are also seen as a competitive factor. Managing inventory according to sales, ensuring timely delivery, and handling local logistics, returns, insurance, and distributor margins and promotional costs are crucial. If a product gains popularity but cannot be supplied to stores on time, expanding sales channels nationwide becomes challenging.
Kim Young-joo, a professor in the Department of Cosmetic Science at Eulji University, noted, "In the competition between Chinese and Korean brands, operational capabilities such as inventory management, delivery, logistics, and returns may become more important than the products themselves. While being Korean is still a strength, it should not be the sole reason for a brand's existence. Brands must persuade consumers why they should choose them."
* This article has been translated by AI.
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