BTS Comeback D-22: The story behind Gwanghwamun

By Yoo Na-hyun Posted : February 27, 2026, 16:14 Updated : February 27, 2026, 16:14
Citizens walk through Gwanghwamun Gate toward Gyeongbokgung Palace in central Seoul, with modern city buildings rising in the background, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
A map of Gyeongbokgung Palace provided by the Palace and Royal Tombs Center.

SEOUL, February 27 (AJP) - Today’s Gyeongbokgung is often the first breath Seoul offers to the world.

Tourists in flowing hanbok pass beneath Gwanghwamun, their silk sleeves catching early-spring light. Cameras rise in unison at the changing of the royal guards. On the stone terrace of Geunjeongjeon, the old wooden eaves frame a startling horizon — beyond them, the clean axis of modern Seoul.

For many visitors who first encountered Korea through K-dramas and K-pop, this palace is both backdrop and origin story. Here, timber and tile meet glass and steel. Here, a dynasty’s memory and a nation’s cultural present stand face to face.

And at the very center lies a path once reserved for a king.

 
A public training session of the royal guard takes place at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
Visitors pass through Heungnyemun Gate at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
Tourists photograph the royal guard changing ceremony taking place in front of Gwanghwamun Gate in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9.2026 AJP Yoo Na-hyun


The King’s Road, 600 Years Opened to the World

Beyond Gwanghwamun, through Heungnyemun Gate, three stone lanes unfold beneath one’s feet. The middle path rises ever so slightly — subtle, deliberate. This was Eodo, the king’s road.

On either side walked civil officials and military officers, each to their rank, each to their place. Even today, the stones whisper hierarchy. Order survives in elevation.
In 2026, this path returns to the public imagination. As it aligns with the performance route of BTS, the phrase “the King’s Road” circulates anew — no longer confined to royal ritual, but echoing across global pop culture.

When the ceremonial axis of a Joseon court meets a contemporary stage, Gyeongbokgung ceases to be mere scenery. It becomes layered time — history sedimented beneath sound.

 
Tourists walk around Geunjeongjeon Hall at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
The rear view of Geunjeongjeon Hall at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. The two-tiered stone platform and elevated roofline underscore the hall’s architectural significance. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 

Geunjeongjeon: Where Power Was Made Visible

At the palace heart stands Geunjeongjeon, hall of state ceremonies. Coronations. Investitures of crown princes. Receptions for foreign envoys. Grand assemblies of court. Here, authority was not simply declared — it was staged.

Raised upon a double-tiered stone platform, the hall commands height both physical and symbolic. Along its balustrades stand the Four Guardian Deities — Blue Dragon, White Tiger, Vermilion Bird, Black Tortoise — and the twelve zodiac animals.

Power here required no speech. It was encoded in elevation, orientation, ornament.

If a modern stage rests upon this axis today, the audience does not merely attend a concert. They enter a space dense with ritual memory.



 
Visitors look around Gangnyeongjeon Hall at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
Citizens pass through the Sajjeongjeon Hall area at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
Visitors view the Irworobongdo folding screen at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun



Sajeongjeon and Gangnyeongjeon: The Border of State and Self

If Geunjeongjeon was the public theater, Sajeongjeon was governance in conversation — the king meeting ministers in daily counsel. Behind the throne stood the Irworobongdo, the folding screen of sun, moon and five peaks — symbol of sovereign authority extending across the Korean Peninsula.

The same image appears behind King Sejong on Korea’s 10,000-won note. Its symbolism endures in pocket and palm.

Further within lies Gangnyeongjeon, the king’s living quarters. This was private space — historians of the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty were not permitted to reside here. Record paused. Power exhaled.

Wooden floors opened to summer air; ondol-heated rooms held winter warmth. The king, too, lived within climate, within season, within the ordinary rhythms of this peninsula.

The palace was a stage of sovereignty — and also a dwelling of a single human life.



 
A general view of Gyeonghoeru Pavilion at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
An ornamental detail rests atop the tiled roof of Gyeonghoeru Pavilion at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun


Gyeonghoeru: Banquet, Cosmology, and Reflection

If Geunjeongjeon was ritual, Gyeonghoeru was celebration — the politics of hospitality. Foreign envoys were welcomed here; meritorious officials honored.

Rebuilt in 1867, the pavilion stands upon forty-eight stone pillars. Twenty-four inner columns are round; twenty-four outer columns square — embodying the philosophy of cheonwon jibang: heaven is round, earth is square.

Even the roofline carries guardians — small figurines to ward off evil spirits, ornaments permitted only to the highest-ranking structures.

This is no mere pavilion. It is cosmology in timber and stone.

 
A general view of Hyangwonji Pond at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun

Hyangwonji: Rest, and the Weight of Tragedy

Deep within the palace grounds rests Hyangwonji, a pond once meant for royal repose. At its center stands Hyangwonjeong Pavilion, where king and queen walked, paused, breathed. Water, forest, reflection — a softer register than the tension of the throne hall.

Yet beyond it lies Geoncheonggung Palace, site of the 1895 assassination of Queen Min by Japanese agents — the Eulmi Incident. Soon after, King Gojong sought refuge at the Russian Legation. Gyeongbokgung became, in effect, an emptied palace.

Thus serenity and sorrow coexist.

 
Visitors tour the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
Visitors tour the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 

Time does not erase; it accumulates.

With the Japanese annexation in 1910, Gyeongbokgung endured sweeping destruction. Many halls were dismantled or relocated. The Japanese Government-General Building once stood heavily upon this ground.

Since 1990, restoration has advanced steadily. Yet only about 30 percent of the original structures stand today. The goal: 40 percent restoration by 2045.
 

Tourists film short-form social media videos at Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun
 
Visitors tour the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Jongno District, Seoul, on Feb. 9. 2026. AJP Yoo Na-hyun

Eodo was once touched only by royal steps. It bore the weight of ritual and rule.

Now citizens and visitors traverse it freely — silk skirts brushing stone, smartphones lifted to capture angles once forbidden.

In twenty-one days, another moment will arrive. BTS is scheduled to perform.

The palace that once anchored a dynasty prepares to connect, through music, to the world. The ceremonial axis becomes a cultural stage.

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