Shopping arcade in Seoul finds new life as elderly hangout

By Han Jun-gu Posted : March 12, 2026, 10:23 Updated : March 12, 2026, 10:23
A man plays janggi or Korean chess at a place in Jongno, central Seoul on March 11, 2026. AJP Han Jun-gu
SEOUL, March 11 (AJP) - A shopping arcade in central Seoul has found an unlikely second life as a favorite hangout for elderly people with little money.

On the first floor of Nakwon Arcade in Jongno, a boisterous crowd of seniors fills the tables daily, some seated, others standing nearby, their laughter and chatter echoing all the way to the entrance. This is where the neighborhood’s best janggi (or Korean chess) players gather to compete.

With recreational activities banned in nearby Tapgol Park, once a popular gathering spot for the elderly, the arcade has emerged as a new alternative, giving seniors a place to relax and enjoy their favorite pastimes.
 
Visitors take a rest in front of a shopping arcade in Jongno, central Seoul on March 11, 2026. AJP Han Jun-gu
The faces of those seated said it all - anger, joy, the tension of their matches. Seventeen janggi tables now fill the space, but it was not always that way. The room originally housed twelve janggi tables and five for baduk, but baduk players had their own gathering spot nearby and rarely showed up. Eventually, all seventeen became janggi tables.

The aisles between tables are unusually wide, enough to fit another table. The reason is simple: their matches attract kibitzers who like to offer advice and tips. The extra space lets people move freely even when spectators line the sides. At peak times around sixty people fill the room.
 
Elderly people play janggi or Korean chess at a place in Jongno, central Seoul on March 11, 2026. AJP Han Jun-gu
Elderly people play janggi or Korean chess at a place in Jongno, central Seoul on March 11, 2026. AJP Han Jun-gu
Elderly people play janggi or Korean chess at a place in Jongno, central Seoul on March 11, 2026. AJP Han Jun-gu
No food or smoking is allowed. When someone steps out for a cigarette or a coffee, another player naturally takes their seat.

No fees. No restrictions. Visitors come from as far as other provinces. They play against new opponents, test their skills, and find worthy rivals. Unofficial rules sometimes emerge suddenly among them.
 
People stroll at a park in Jongno, central Seoul on March 11, 2026. AJP Han Jun-gu
Elderly people play janggi or Korean chess at a place in Jongno, central Seoul on March 11, 2026. AJP Han Jun-gu

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