"In the evenings, the laughter of young women coming in for haircuts never stopped," said Byeon Mi-ja, the owner of Baekjo Hair Salon in Sachang-ri, Hwachon County. Byeon opened her salon in the early 1970s near the current location of Ediya Coffee. After moving twice, she has operated Baekjo Hair Salon at its current site for nearly 50 years.
Over the past half-century, the landscape of Sachang-ri has changed significantly. From a bustling street filled with soldiers, residents, and merchants to the present day, following the disbandment of the Army's 27th Division, Baekjo Hair Salon has witnessed the evolution of the area.
The history of Sachang-ri predates the military base. According to local historical records, the name originated from a warehouse of the former Satanhyang and was also known as 'Silheungchangmal' or 'Changmal.' After administrative reorganization in 1914, it became Sachang-ri. In 1954, Sachang-ri was incorporated into Hwachon County from Pocheon County, Gyeonggi Province, and that same year, the township office moved from Gwangdeok-ri to Sachang-ri. Subsequently, Sachang-ri expanded in 1970 and again in 1974.
The establishment of the military base significantly transformed the modern history of Sachang-ri. The 27th Division, founded in 1953, was stationed in Sachang-ri from 1963 until its disbandment in 2022, serving the community for 59 years. The 1970s, when Baekjo Hair Salon opened, marked a vibrant period for the local economy, driven by the presence of soldiers. When soldiers were on leave, restaurants, bars, and cafes thrived, creating a natural market catering to military personnel.
On days when soldiers returned from long training sessions, the entire street would come alive. Byeon recalled, "When soldiers returned from training, the cafes and bars would have women waiting on the streets with drinks and flowers. The neighborhood was so lively that even those unfamiliar with the area knew it was a day for soldiers' returns."
Residents also remember the strict military discipline of the time, with military police patrolling Sachang-ri to check on soldiers during their leaves. One resident noted, "The military police would patrol the streets, and soldiers were quite fearful of them."
During that time, Baekjo Hair Salon was busy. Byeon mentioned that Sachang-ri had many cafes, and the area around Sachang 4-ri was home to numerous bars known as 'bangseokjip.' Women preparing for evening shifts would come in for haircuts between 5 and 7 p.m.
"At that time, the salon was always noisy. Laughter was constant," she said.
The laughter that filled the small salon was a reflection of the vibrancy of Sachang-ri's economy. In an era without cell phones or the internet, cafes served as social hubs where soldiers and residents naturally interacted.
The relationship between soldiers and residents extended beyond mere consumption. Residents and merchants would applaud and offer flowers and drinks to soldiers returning from training. This unique lifestyle culture in Sachang-ri developed over many years of coexistence between the military and the community.
As time passed, the scenery outside Baekjo Hair Salon changed. The military service environment and soldiers' consumer culture evolved, and the once-bustling street gradually diminished. The decisive change came with the disbandment of the 27th Division.
When the disbandment became a reality, a rally against it was held on October 8, 2019, during the Yonghwa Festival in Hwachon County. Residents demanded the reversal of the disbandment and measures to support the local economy. However, the 27th Division was officially disbanded in November 2022, and in December of that year, the Hwachon County Council addressed the issue of the collapse of the local economy in Sachang-ri due to the division's closure.
With the military base that had been part of the community for 59 years gone, the street outside Baekjo Hair Salon is no longer the same. The sight of soldiers walking in groups and the bustling shops filled with soldiers on leave have become memories for residents.
However, time is moving forward in Sachang-ri once again. On the night of September 3, the first 'Byeolbyeol Night Market' at the Sachang-ri 5-day market attracted around 1,500 visitors, including residents, military families, soldiers, visitors, and foreign workers, according to Hwachon County statistics. The market featured food stalls, flea markets, and a singing contest, filling the once-quiet evening streets with people.
In the past, the local economy thrived when soldiers were on leave. Now, residents and merchants are beginning to create reasons for people to visit.
Another significant change is on the horizon for Sachang-ri. The Gwangdeok Tunnel, which will connect Hwachon County's Saneum-myeon with Pocheon City in Gyeonggi Province, is set to complete its design phase in June 2027, with construction expected to begin in the second half of that year and completion aimed for 2031. Once the tunnel is completed, access between Saneum-myeon and the metropolitan area is expected to improve significantly.
However, simply improving access does not guarantee a revival of the local economy. While it could become a route for people from the metropolitan area to enter, it may also serve as a pathway for local consumption to flow out. Ultimately, the challenge will be to create reasons for people to stop in Sachang-ri rather than just pass through.
Hwachon County is also preparing for the post-Gwangdeok Tunnel era. County Mayor Kim Se-hoon presented plans for tourism development connecting Mount Hwaak, Samil Valley, Chotdaebawi, Gokun Valley, and healing centers during a residents' briefing last month. Many of these plans are still in the conceptual stage, with various procedures such as development studies, feasibility assessments, permits, and funding still to be completed before they can become actual projects.
The history of Sachang-ri can also be an asset. The memories of a once-bustling street filled with soldiers, the scenes of residents offering flowers and drinks to returning soldiers, the cafes, and the long-standing shops represent the unique lifestyle of Sachang-ri.
One of the spaces that remembers that time is Baekjo Hair Salon. After opening in the early 1970s and moving twice, it has witnessed the changes in Sachang-ri for about 50 years at its current location. Countless soldiers, residents, and merchants have passed through its doors, and in the evenings, the laughter of women filled the salon. On days when soldiers returned from training, the entire street would come alive.
Now, the 'Victory Division,' which had been part of the community for 59 years, has left. By 2031, a new path, the Gwangdeok Tunnel, is expected to be established in Sachang-ri. The era when the military brought people to the area is shifting to one where the community must create its own reasons for attracting visitors.
Byeon Mi-ja continues to cut hair at Baekjo Hair Salon today. Although the street outside has changed, the salon remains steadfast in its place.
The era when soldiers filled the streets has ended. Now, Sachang-ri stands at another crossroads, needing to create reasons for people to come.
* This article has been translated by AI.
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