For spring/summer 2027, founder Gee Chun-hee stayed close to the classical, feminine grace that has defined her work. The freshness came through color, texture and movement — familiar silhouettes seen in a gentler light.
Pastels carried the subdued warmth of an old photograph. Textured fabrics gave the clothes depth, while structured jackets played against loose skirts and fluid dresses. As clouds passed across the afternoon sun, the collection seemed to shift with the light.
At the outdoor Music Plaza near the World Music Fountain, the breeze supplied its own finishing touch, lifting hems and letting the softer shapes billow against the precise lines of the tailoring.
The effect was deliberate, even if the wind was not.
“It’s like taking a beautiful image and giving it a vintage-film filter,” co-CEO Gee Jin-hee told AJP, describing the muted, slightly yellowed cast that guided the choice of colors and fabrics.
The collection began with a feeling rather than a conventional arrangement of reference images. Gee Jin-hee likened the process to the Harry Potter films, in which thoughts and memories can be drawn from the mind and made visible.
“We don’t use mood boards. It’s like pulling thoughts out of someone’s mind in Harry Potter,” she said.
That abstract starting point gradually acquired substance through fabrics, colors and silhouettes.
“The colors are softer and more muted than in previous collections, allowing them to blend together more naturally,” she said.
Richly textured jacquards brought depth and volume. Sharply defined shapes gave way to looser lines, creating a balance between clothes that held their form and those that moved freely around the body.
It was an evolution of the house’s vocabulary. The previous fall/winter collection, “Beyond the Classic,” had explored traditional tailoring through sculptural forms, layering and relaxed proportions. Spring softened that approach without losing its composure.
For a label now in its 47th year, continuity is part of the design brief.
Gee Chun-hee belongs to a dwindling generation of pioneering Korean designers who still present regular collections, maintaining a place for homegrown luxury womenswear in a market dominated by international names.
She founded Miss Gee Collection in Seoul’s Myeong-dong fashion district in 1979. Refined tailoring and feminine silhouettes became its signatures, reaching a wider audience through actresses including Shim Eun-ha and Lee Young-ae.
Shim’s wardrobe in the 1999 television drama “Trap of Youth” helped popularize the “Cheongdam-dong daughter-in-law look” — polished, discreetly affluent dressing associated with women in one of Seoul’s wealthiest neighborhoods.
The appeal was an assurance of elegance rather than an insistence on novelty. Preserving that assurance while responding to changing tastes remains central to the business.
“It takes constant effort. We could not have come this far without it,” Gee Jin-hee said.
“The economy goes up and down, and trends come and go. But there is a constant thread that runs through everything we do at Miss Gee,” she said. “That is our core, and we work hard to preserve it.”
The question of what customers will continue to value has become more pressing across luxury fashion. LVMH, whose houses include Louis Vuitton and Dior, reported a 5 percent year-on-year decline in third-quarter organic sales at its fashion and leather goods division, with revenue of 8.25 billion euros ($9.2 billion).
Miss Gee’s own reach has broadened beyond designer boutiques. In 2018, Gee Chun-hee launched G Studio through home-shopping retailer CJ O Shopping, bringing her aesthetic to a wider consumer market.
The main collection retains the occasion and ceremony of a luxury presentation. Longtime partner BMW supplied 10 vehicles for VIP transport, including the flagship X7 SUV, and displayed its high-performance XM at the venue.
The spring/summer pieces are scheduled to reach Miss Gee Collection stores and its official website following the show.
On the runway, however, the most persuasive expression of the house was a simpler one: a firmly tailored jacket, a skirt caught by the breeze and familiar elegance allowed to move.
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